Prolific fashion designer Sonia Rykiel passed away Thursday morning at the age of 86, according to the fashion label she founded.

Rykiel, whose label was known for brightly colored, tightly-fitting sweater dresses, extra short skirts and inside-out stiches, first founded her label in 1968, creating a French counter-culture to strict dress codes. Her early adopters included famous icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot.

She was diagnosed in 1995 with Parkinsons disease, at which time she passed on leadership of her label to daughter Nathalie, which was later sold to First Heritage Brands. Her family retained stake in the brand until this year, when they sold the remaining shares. Nathalie remains as a consultant to the brand.